The EOTECH Vudu 1-8 is one of our favorite scopes here at T.REX ARMS. I've personally been using these for a few years now, starting with their first 1-6 optic that they came out with. And it was great. We sold that as well, but there were a few deficiencies with it, which I took up with EOTECH as well as other shooters. And they've made some of those changes to the new 1-8, and we are bringing it back to T.REX ARMS And supporting it once again, because it's totally awesome. So when you order it, you get a box such as this, with the nice, fancy little plastic wrapper box thing on top, which is really the best part about buying this product is the box, of course, like every product. So you take the foam off, you get the manual with all the stuff you get another manual regarding reticle and zeroing.
There's a user manual on the actual reticle, the HC3 and then there's a user manual on the actual optic itself. So they end up shipping this with other scopes of the same reticle, and then you actually get a manual for this particular model itself 1-8x24. So, comes in this nice little wrapper, pop the band, little rubber thing. Scope comes out, it's got a silicone thingy inside. It's got covers, which I never use, but if you want to… Hey, why not? Boom! And then… what the scope also comes with is, and it's something I really like about it. It comes with a battery, of course. So, you know, you're getting a good deal and it also has a throw lever that is you simply remove from the packaging and that installs right here in the scope itself and screws right in, you can use some loctite if you want to keep it from unscrewing. I've never done that. If I feel it getting a loose, I tighten it up and it's no big deal. So that's included with the scope. There's a lot of companies out there that force you to buy a throw lever for their optic. And so you have to source that, see if it's in stock and it's a bit of trouble. What we do with the Razor 1-6 is we actually get the Switchview lever and we include it with the scope. Because I personally believe that all these kinds of scopes, if the goal and the intention of this is to run it as a one power optic for close range and then quickly dial where you need to, you need a throw lever, just grabbing a fist of whatever you can get and twisting is not very accurate and it's also not very efficient.
Battery and Scope Placement (02:06):
So the scope itself is very simple. It takes a standard watch battery. 2032 is what I believe they're called. On button right here. Minus and plus for your brightness. And then it has lockable—well, capped turrets—so I guess they're lockable. The early one did not have this and on a few transitions, I would have going to pistol. I was actually twisting the turrets on my magazine carriers. So now that you can actually cap the turrets off to maintain your zero and your adjustment that's really awesome. As far as installing one of these on the gun. This is… I have a MK18 right here. So we're set something that I've seen people do with these scopes is they grab one, they put it in a scope mount and they position it halfway on the upper receiver. The eye relief on these scopes is something like 4", 3 1/2", something like that. So what I've found is, if I wanna be retracting my stock decently, or maybe coming in one notch, I've gotta actually run the scope all the way to the front of my upper receiver. I'm not gonna get away with putting this halfway here unless I have a really short stocky neck. But for most people, this scope is one you're gonna run all the way to the front. So I highly recommend you get a scope mount that favors getting pushed forward a little bit like the Scalarworks 1.93 versus some of the scope mounts that basically just sit straight up and down, that's not gonna allow you to get the scope farther out.
Scope Placement Continued (03:29):
If you wanna bridge your scope mount onto the rail, it's not recommended. It really depends on how you've got your weapon set up. But what I like to do is take the Scalarworks 1.93 mount, shove it all the way to the front of my upper receiver, shove the scope pretty much all the way to the front inside of this, and I'm set and I'm good to go. I have good eye relief on 1X. If I dial up, it's great as well. And I'm set and I'm good to go. So just something to think about, this is a scope that you're probably gonna run all the way to the front. So definitely get a scope mount that will allow you to do so. As far as how generous the eye box is, it's one of the better scopes that I've used as far as positioning on one power and being able to accurately engage the reticle is very bright.
It's a little dimmer than a RazorHD 1-6, in my opinion. The older ones of these that first hit the market seem to be super dim, but the new ones recently—I purchased 10 of them, looked through all 10—and they were bright. And that was awesome to see. So because of that other testing I've been doing, we're bringing this to T.REX ARMS. So if you're looking for a good 1-8 scope, that's 30mm, that's lightweight. Once you start adding your PEQ-15s, your lights, your suppressors, all that good stuff. You're able to save some weight, running a scope like this, versus some of the heavier 1-8s out there, or even 1-6s or even older 1-4s. So definitely check it out. It's one of my favorites sitting here on this MK18, I've also run them on 13.7"s, 14.5"s. Great setup for that as well. And I would venture to say, it'd actually be a pretty good setup on a DMR 30 caliber type weapon as well. So thanks for watching.