Scalarworks Aimpoint LEAP Mount Overview

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Product Introduction (00:00):
The Scalarworks LEAP mounts are some of the finest out there. They obviously make them for a lot of different optics. But this one is going to be for the Aimpoint Micro footprint. So it's gonna be for the T-1s, the T-2s, the RDS, and a lot of other optics out there from other companies like Primary Arms and other people that are using the same footprint, which is essentially two little screws in the front two in the back mounted from underneath the mount, into the body of the optic. So there's just a lot of different optics out there that are compatible with these mounts. But what we really like about these in particular is they're super lightweight. They have this twisty QD dial which returns to zero very accurately, very precisely. And it's just one of the… Just one of the best amounts out there, especially if you're running something a little more pricey like this T2 you definitely wanna invest a little money in having a quality mount that'll maintain zero, hold zero, return to zero, and also be lightweight at the same time. So let's go ahead and mount up.

Functionality and Uses (00:54):
What I have right here is a absolute co-witness. These come in multiple heights. So the absolute co-witness, what that means is when you pop up your backup irons, or you have a fixed front sight post on your Carbine that is going to sit directly in the center of the tube itself. Now this is a little more traditional of a setup. Some people really like it, it means you're gonna have more cheek on the stock of the gun. But a lot of folks out there are also moving to the lower third which is this guy right here. And what that means is in the very bottom of the window. So not in the full—you know—center of the window, but in kind of the bottom section, the lower, you know, third of the window is where you're gonna see your backup irons or your fixed front sight post your fixed rear, your flip up rear, your whatever combination you're running. So you can have quite a bit of field of view through the tube with your iron sights. But then, you know, a little more recently past few years people have started making even taller mounts that are called 1.93s and what this does is this brings the optic even higher above your iron sight, traditional iron sight plane. And what's gonna happen with that is I can have my head a little more upright on the gun.

I have a little bit of chin on this stock, I don't have all my face so I can have a more upright shooting posture. It's a little bit easier to shoot with night vision and gas masks, things like that. So if you're less concerned about having backup irons, that co-witness with your red dot going with the 1.93 height, such as this one can be pretty nifty and pretty awesome. So as you can see, it comes shrink-wrapped in this little package inside the box as well. We've got the four screws that we're going to need to for the optic and then a torque spit that we are going to use to actually attach the mount itself the optic itself to the mount using the four screws that are included. All right, so we've got the mount ready to go. We've got the optic, as you will probably notice you can actually put the optic on technically backwards from how the mount was originally designed. Not necessarily a big problem, but typically speaking people are mounting it. So the swoop is towards the front of the gun. Like, so, all right, so now to put the optic on the mount itself, we're going to use the included torx bit, and we're gonna use it on one of these handy dandy tools that has a cool name.

Installation (03:16):
So we've got that ready to go. We're gonna flip the optic upside down. So gravity will be on our side. Screws are gonna go in. This is kind of finicky. And we're just gonna get these started, we're not gonna… We're not gonna tie in each one down all the way. We're just gonna get it started, so the screws don't fall out. Now, as you can see on the back here it's gonna, you can't really finagle a screwdriver in an angle, but there's two convenient holes in the mount that you are actually going to be pushing the bit through to access the screws once they're in place. So we're going to place the small again, it's kinda gotta finesse them. (Pop, all right through) Get it started. Next one, just get it started. All right. So you've got all of 'em started. That's pretty good. What we're gonna be doing is now just going through one at a time, and we are going to be doing to about where it's where I start to feel resistance. So I'm like, it's starting to get nice and tight, and we're just gonna do like a half turn. Meet resistance, and then half turn.

If you wanna do this properly, unlike me right now, you can use a torque driver and you are going to do each screw to 10 inch-pounds as listed here on the little instruction manual that is included. I historically have just done hand tight (plus a little extra) and I'm good to go. But you obviously don't wanna strip out the body on the T-2. So if you wanna do it a little more properly—a little more proper—you can obviously get one of these. So now we have the optic on the mount. Good to go. So now we just need to mount it to the rifle. And what we're gonna do is we need to loosen the QD attachment point (the wheel) loosen it all the way. Tilt it onto the rifle on our desired location. I'm gonna run this a little more towards the front on the upper receiver. This is a Monolithic rail, but I'm gonna run it kind of still in the upper receiver section. I can run a magnifier with it at the same time. Now we're just gonna tighten that wheel down As tight as we can get it. We're not gonna use a tool. That's good. Can't go any further.

And now the optic is ready to be zeroed using a 50/200 meter zero, a 100, 36, whatever you want to do just make sure you confirm at distance and make sure you understand where your holds are. It is important to note that if you are running a 1.93 or even some of the taller ones, the 2.26s, and you know, or if you run a riser,—put this on a riser—your zero at 50 meters—let's say, if you do a 50/200 meter zero—is not gonna be a perfect 200 meter, zero at distance also depends on your barrel length on your, you know, your suppressor, your bullet and all that. So for example, this right here may actually be a 50/170, 50/160, something like that, but I can confirm. Zero it at 50 meters point of aim/point of impact.

Conclusion (06:47):
And then I can double check what my actual hold is at 200 meters or 180 meters (the re-converging of my trajectory) and really find out what's going on. But when you start to rise your optics on the gun, that is going to change your zero. So don't just rely off of what people say on forums or what zero targets say, you are gonna have to confirm it distance. But this is a great setup right here. 1.93 with the T-2 with an RDS with another micro optic. Keeps the head nice and upright on the gun, but I can still have a little bit of cheek on the stock. And that's why the 1.93 leap is personally my favorite as far as what height to run, you know these optics, I don't really like to go too much higher than that, if I can help it. But this really gives me all that I really need as far as getting the optic a little bit taller. If you have any other questions on this… On the leap series of mounts or on the optics that are compatible with them, go ahead and email us at [email protected].