Everything You Need to Know about Your DeltaPoint Pro

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Video Transcript

Introduction (00:00)
The Leupold DeltaPoint Pro is one of our favorite optics here at T.REX ARMS. We've been using them for a few years and while it was really good back in the day, Leupold still updated the design recently and they made the electronics on the inside a little bit more durable. And then they also introduced a night vision model that has more settings in the dim range, which is useful for people using night vision. Because before, if you went all the way down to the lowest setting, you could use it under night vision, it just bloomed a little bit. But then they added this model that has even more brightness modes. So you can have a really crisp dot under night vision in a lot of different lighting conditions.

So I have a night vision model here. The DeltaPoint Pro, of the models that we sell—tan, black, night vision, standard—they range from $450 up to $550. What you get is going to be the same for each one: You get the optic itself, this nice FDE finish, a cover, which you're really not going to use, unless maybe it's on an offset mount on your rifle and it's just sitting there and then you want to pop it off and you're ready to go. Would you use this on a pistol that you're wearing in concealment to protect the optic? The answer is absolutely not. That optic needs to be exposed, ready to go. So the cover, really, we never use it.

Then there is also this pack that comes with two screws. Now this is really important. The nice thing with this optic is the two screws that it comes with work on a variety of mounts, whether they're offset mounts, optic mounts, and on pistols themselves. RMRs and other pistol optics sometimes require different kinds of screws, different lengths and whatnot. But the DeltaPoint Pro has two screws that actually work on a lot of stuff. So it's imperative that you don't lose the two screws that the optic comes with. Then there's also a supplied 2032 battery. And the awesome thing with the DeltaPoint Pro, as you will see, the battery compartment is accessible from the top. Now the downside to this is it makes the entire optic much taller. So if you want to run backup irons, you're going to need a taller set of iron sights. But right off the bat, I can load the battery and it's magnetized at the top to kind of hold it in place for you. Then you shut that sucker. And then there's this little latch that keeps the trap door shut. I've never had the latch come undone during shooting or anything. It's just very solid. And now I have the battery installed and I'm good to go.

There's also a slot here in the rear for some iron sights that you can add from Leupold. I have used those before. It's a big rear sight that kind of attaches to the back here and then you can adjust the height. But then there's some other irons out there that you can buy that is a standard rear sight that's gonna go into your dovetail with a standard front sight, and I like that a little bit more.

So as you can see, the two screws that the DeltaPoint Pro comes with are pre-Loctited. So I generally don't do anything else to the screws when I go to mount to a pistol. I have here a slide from Jagerwerks, and this was already milled for DeltaPoint Pro. Now, if you have a Glock MOS, you will need the MOS plate to go with the gun. And if you're buying a aftermarket slide from another company, you're just going to need to make sure that it is actually milled for DeltaPoint Pro. The DeltaPoint Pro is not one of these optics that shares a footprint with like the RMR and other popular ones, so you do have to get a little bit specific. But this is going to, as you can see with this Jagerwerks milling right here—which is one of my favorites, especially for the DeltaPoint Pro—they have the four little bosses that are sticking up that interface with the bottom of the DeltaPoint Pro. This helps get it close to zero, returning to zero, if you have to remove the optic. But because the battery compartment is loadable from the top, you really never have to remove the optic. So you really don't have to worry about that.

Installation on Slide (03:36)
So I literally drop the optic on. Both screws… Remember, don't lose them, you're going to need these. And then what I like to do, I get them tight and then I do quarter-turn and I'm set. And now I've got my DeltaPoint ready to get zeroed, ready to use. I can witness-mark the two torque screws if I want to see if they start to get loose. But I've never had a problem with them with the factory screws that are pre-Loctited with hand-tight quarter-turn. I've never had any issues with that on one of these particular slides.

Installation on T.REX Offset Mount (04:30)
If you are purchasing our offset mount, it does not come with the screws to mount the DeltaPoint to the mount itself. It comes with the necessary screws to attach the riser plate to the mount. But the nice thing with this is, this was designed to work with the supplied DeltaPoint screws. So you don't have to worry about anything else, just keep those two screws with the DeltaPoint like I said. I have another DeltaPoint right here. This is the black finish. And as you can see, the four little bosses on the bottom are once again, going to mate up with the four bosses here on the top. And then you're going to have your supplied screws… You're going to drop them in. And just like the pistol optic, it's the same thing. You can do hand-tight quarter-turn. We also have torque specs on our website if you really want to get specific and have it perfect and exact. But I generally just do hand-tight plus a little more and on my offset mounts it also isn't a problem.

And this is one of my favorite optics to run on the offset mount, because it is a little bit cheaper than some of the other optics out there. It does give you a very large window and the battery is easily changeable without having to remove the optic and then re-zero the whole setup. So this is one of my favorite setups right here. And it's also ambidextrous with this particular offset mount. So you can run it either way, depending on if you are right-handed or wrong-handed.

Zeroing Target (05:51)
Included with every DeltaPoint Pro is going to be this zero target. This is also available for free on our website for download on any of these product pages. So if you use it and then you have other optics or you have to re-zero this or whatever, we've got more of these online. Now, just a couple of things about this particular target that we did to make it a little bit easier for zeroing pistols. The first off is we have this nice diamond that's directing your attention to the center of the square. Cause sometimes it's kind of hard to really know, as your optic is dancing around because you're holding a pistol, it's a little less stable than say a rifle, to really know when you're center with the box. And then on top of that, we don't have a box that's completely black because the downside is when you start putting a reticle on top of the black, you know, like a black square or a black circle, the dot usually washes away and you can't even see it. So we wanted to maintain some paper, some white paper that is visible, that we can put our dot on top of. And in this case this optic isn't emitting a red dot, it's more of sort of an orange hue. So that orange hue, I really want to position right here and I'll be good to go.

Iron Sights (07:01)
Now, another thing that's really important to note… (And this pistol right here, I don't have a rear sight set up this, this one's actually designed to really take the DeltaPoint rear sight right here.) But if you are zeroing a pistol optic with iron sights, don't think they all need to co-witness. The reality is a pistol optic is much more refined as far as adjustment than iron sights are (a couple blocks of metal). So typically speaking, after I'm done zeroing a pistol optic, like an RMR, an SRO, DeltaPoint, a whatever, it will not be perfectly aligned with the irons. It will be a little left, a little high, or a little low with the irons. And as long as I can—I'll turn the optic off and then I'll shoot with my irons—as long as I can hit stuff out to 20 meters, I'm happy. Like that's about as zeroed as my irons sights on my pistol are going to be, or maybe even if I go a little further at like 50 or something like that. But my pistol optic is going to be much more refined than the irons. So don't zero them all co-witness. That generally speaking doesn't work. Just focus on the optic itself and the target.

Zeroing Method (08:00)
As far as zeroing distance, there's a lot of different folks out there do a lot of different things. I've typically just been doing a 10 yard zero. It's super easy. It's super simple. In my opinion, the problem with getting really concerned about what distance you have, the only thing that's really going to change is your holds— hold unders hold overs. But the big thing we want to pay attention to, whether we're doing a 10 yard or even a 25 zero using this target right here (this is a 25 yard confirmation), is I really want to make sure that my windage on side to side is correct. Because my elevation, I mean, that's going to change, you know, my hold is going to change based on how far and close I'm in to the target. But the main thing I want to watch for is groups on the left, groups on the right, and making sure that can actually be center with the target, so when I go back to 40 yards, I don't all of a sudden have this over here. All I have is this down here, or even my group being high because I need to be doing a hold under. So the big thing we're watching for is windage. Elevation kind of does, kind of doesn't matter. We're shooting a pistol usually inside of 25 meters. But our windage is what we really want to care about. So with that said, we're going to go off the 10 and we're going to shoot this sucker. (Disqualified.)

First Round (09:15)
The other thing to do is make sure you're dimming your optic as much as possible because we don't want to blow out this center aiming point that we're aiming for. We have this down so low I can barely see it, just enough to position that in the center of the box to take that shot. Alrighty, let's do this. Keep the dot center of the window for parallax reasons. Center of the box. Oof. Ouch. All right. So that's three shots. The first one was absolutely horrible. Pulled it. Just shanked that sucker super left. And you really got to pay attention to when you're shanking shots. But it does appear that we have some stuff going on over here on the left side. I'm going to go ahead and crank two right. We're also at 10 yards with the DeltaPoint Pro, one-click is 1 MOA. So at 10 yards, I have to do two clicks per movement. So we'll actually do four right. We can go ahead and play with elevation. Let's go ahead and play with it and see what happens. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. So we'll go down 10. We will see what happens.

Second Round (10:39)
I'm going to really try not to shank any rounds. I smooth press this to the rear, really focus on the target, make sure my dot is inside. Pulled that slightly high. I'm going to go one more. That last one was perfect. Oh, that was a little high. Oof. Oof. So we have two up here, two down here. Going to have to fire a couple more to confirm. Kind of hard to see exactly what's going on. I know I pulled one right. That last one felt really good.

Yeah. Those are both good. Two shots there. Yep. There they are. These are my two. They felt really good. So I can keep shooting it and really seeing where I'm at. These were two very good presses and I'm more or less center with this square. So now the thing to do is to confirm at distance what's really going on. Cause the issue was shooting at 10 yards with this particular target is, you know, I could be doing this right here and it looks okay because it's in the box. But as soon as I go further back, that will magnify down to here if my zero is actually off to the left. So we're going to go shoot this at 20, just to make sure that everything is inside of this. But everything's inside of this, I'm pretty happy. If everything is inside of this down here to the left, that means something. I probably need to give myself a little bit of clickage. And if I'm completely outside of that, that means I've got some big issues.

Third Round (12:28)
That was on the right. Felt good. Five round group. I think I got two up high right. Oh actually, yeah. We got two inside and then yeah, I've got one, two… That was the one I called. So this is what we have right here. We'll go again. Sloppy.

Fourth Round (13:15)
Nope. Pulled that low right. I have two on the right edge, which I am going to not count because I shanked those suckers. Yep. So these two, just counting those. Those were shanked and it looks like I am indeed high. 1, 2, 3, 4. So if anything, I could maybe come down because I pulled these. These felt good. That's a little bit high. So if anything, I can maybe drop one click, maybe two. The windage looks good. And that's really what we're paying attention to. That looks solid, cause I'm calling the ones I'm pulling and that's a huge deal as far as zeroing pistols goes. You really gotta make sure you're really paying attention when it comes to zeroing. And now let's go ahead and go to like 25ish on him.

Final Confirmation (14:11)
25 yards, I'm reduced C zone. I usually do this to finish off my confirmation. On the right side. I'd say we're pretty zeroed. And the other thing that I will do as I am shooting drills and doing stuff is I will often make fine adjustments as I'm shooting drills and doing stuff. If I'm seeing, you know, something really consistent with my holds at distance or something really consistent with my windage, I will sometimes make adjustments as I go. Because the reality is you can't have a perfect pistol optic zero, cause you have a barrel that is this long, I'm shooting ammo, which is not super consistent, plus hand guns are a whole lot harder to shoot than rifles. So don't expect after you're done zeroing for it to be perfect at all times, like you never have to look at it again. If you change ammo, big problems. If you change your barrel, big problems. You really need to be confirming your zero. I like to shoot targets far away to really make sure I'm set and just make adjustments as you go, as you shoot. Yeah. We're zeroed.

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