Brief Product Description (00:00):
Slings hold the gun to you.
Expanded Product Description (00:02):
So I'm just gonna go over an introduction and how to set up your T.REX Sling that'll arrive looking something like this. You're gonna have two bungee retainments for the rail or your butt stock, whatever you want to use 'em for. And it's gonna arrive rolled up like this. There's several attachment points that you could use, we got CLASH Hooks, you got rotating CLASH Hooks, QDs and adapters of your choice. The sling is gonna arrive in what we're gonna call a standard throw. Meaning if you pull back towards you, it's gonna loosen. This is what everyone is kind of used to with this style of sling that you adjust on the front end. We can reverse this, we'll go over that later. We're just gonna show how to quickly get your hardware on and start using it and adjust it to your body.
Prepping the Front of Your Sling for QDs (00:49):
So QDs, you're gonna make sure you have a tail and you need about 5" of a tail from the front triglide. We wanna make sure we go through both sides and then we're gonna… To lock it in, you pass it back over the top and under the front one (the first one you went through) it's gonna be a little snug, that's what we want, but that will stop it from unlocking on itself. And now you're ready to attach your sling to QD.
Preparing the Rear of Your Sking for QDs (01:31):
The rear is the same. Quick tip on this: I like to set my triglide about 1" from the taper of the tail there. Use whatever attachment point you're gonna use. We like using these D shaped triglides on the rear, kind of keeps it off your hand. And we feed this in. I like to run mine from the center of the triglide to the end of the QD here is about 3". This is what I find to be most universal for most shooters (keeps off your hand, doesn't bunch up, works around your stock, et cetera). Once again, make sure you come back over and lock it in so that it cannot undo itself. This is how we're getting away with one triglide instead, two cutting down bulk and parts. And if you're really concerned about it, you could put a piece of tape around this at that point. So now we have a set up sling.
Reverse Throw Setup (02:39):
All right, now we'll go over, setting up your sling for going in reverse. Reverse, meaning we're gonna push the sling away from us to loosen as we're going up to the handguard. It'll loosen. If we pull to our body, it'll tighten. So we'll go over how to do that. Gonna unlock your triglide here. Just Set your QD aside, pull the triglide all the way off. Okay. All right. So for setting this up, We want our pull-tab to be facing up. Follow that webbing. And you're gonna go down through the QD. So we're gonna go down through the QD. Sometimes this helps to lock this into the forearm or whatever on your weapon that you want to attach it to. To not mess this up, but you're just gonna go through the top and come out the bottom And We're gonna pull it. (The triglide slider for the pull-tab) Because we went through the top we're now gonna go through the bottom and we're gonna pass it back through the top. We're just making basically little S-weaves. So it should look something like that. We're gonna pull that through. Place our triglide on you'll want about 5" to get through all your locks (Fairly close). Then on this, we're gonna go from the bottom. We went through the top, back here to the bottom. We're gonna go back up through the bottom, just continuing that S pattern like so. I like to set mine to where, when this is tensioned and flush that the plastic lines up, it's not on top of it creating a pressure point there. So we're gonna set it to where It lays flat together like so. And then don't forget your secondary lock over the top, passing through and locking into place. Now you'll notice—Let me get a firearm in here—When we lock it in, if I push towards the firearm, I am loosening the sling. If I pull towards my body, I am tightening the sling. We're calling this the reverse throw since we haven't really seen any other company do it. We're just gonna call it reverse. And the other way standard, just to simplify.
Instillation of the Two-to-One Adapter (05:54):
All right, next, we'll go over a few of the attachments and a two-to-one adapter. If you like single point slings. So we're gonna be selling these impact weapons components two to one, sling adapters, and we'll show how to install that in a quick sizing guide for you. So we're gonna remove our plastic triglide that comes on the sling, and we're gonna replace it with this. If you're a right handed shooter the QD socket will normally go to the front side of the sling here. So this is the tail going to my left or the taper going to my left tail, going to my right. We're gonna have it facing that direction for a right-handed shooter. It's opposite for left handed shooters. So we're gonna take this and we're gonna use it just like a triglide. These are a little more stiff, not as much give they're not rounded. So it might fight you a little bit.
Instillation of the Two-to-One Adapter - Continued (06:51):
I like to set mine up 1" from the end of the taper to the front of this next, I'm gonna add my attachment, whether it be a QD, HK hook, CLASH hook whatever you prefer. These adapters will work with QD and hooks. Okay. We're just gonna feed it through. I like to have about 3" from the center line of my adapter to the QD. This keeps it off my hands the most if I do run single point. We are feeding that through. So it'll go through the triglide, like so, or this triglide adapter. Same thing with the plastic triglides. We wanna lock this in. So we're gonna go over the top and come in on the far side there. Should look something like that, and we're gonna just pull it tight. And now we are fully locked in. And now this adapter can take HK hooks. It can take QDS And now you have a single point adapter.
Sizing Guide (08:33):
Now, quick sizing, when you're sizing your sling to your body, a quick tip is you can actually don this with the single point adapter and attach it in. With the sling sitting 90 degrees and straight up and down over your shoulder, as if you're using it. Single point, your pull-tab on your sling should be about where your armpit is. If you're gonna wear body armor, if you're not it'll be just a little past it. So I like to put mine where my armpit is in line with that. And it should be just a little loose, should be hanging about 1" or 2" above your belly button. That's a quick sizing. If you're gonna have close attachments on your firearm, I.e. Like right behind the pistol grip and up on the rail right here, if they're close together, this is a quick, fast way to adjust the sling to your body. And you would take out all your slack and trim.
So hooking in. We can clip in here. Some people do the far side, keep their thumb away from the safety. Always pull when you hook your QDs in to make sure it's not gonna come out. And we can put the sling on. And now if I need to go to single point, I can by just disconnecting and plugging in to my adapter and I can cinch the sling accordingly.
Now it's free hanging. Now. I don't personally run single points very often. I mostly use this to change guns out, or if I'm in a situation where I just want to put rifle down, I can go into the single point, leave it on my body, on my armor, and I can stow my rifle wherever. And now this is just on my body. If I need to pick up my firearm, I can start using it immediately. And then when I have time, I can click back in to my firearm to have sling retention.
Stowing the Sling (10:43):
Next, we're gonna go over sling storage, how to store on your firearm and go over these bungee retainment straps. So these, they'll come with two of these, you'll get a tanned one and a black one. You can… They're just shock cord with just a little toggle that clamps down on it. Very simple design, easy to fix, repair, or change out if you want to. You can just stretch it over the rail and place it on like so, and then you can just pull the end here and squeeze together the clasp and tension to the rail, however tight you would like it. With the leftover knot—So it's not flipping around like that—I like to push it back through like so, and it just kind of holds it a little more snug. We've ran these quite a bit around the barrel nut area. No melting has occurred yet. It's shock cord. If you did need to replace it fairly easy. All right.
Stowing - Continued (11:46):
So we'll go over stowing. So place your rear QD, wherever you would like wherever you run yours And lock in your front. All right. One thing to note is keep the bungee, the retainment bungee in front of the QDs or any of the hardware. If you put it behind it, it will bind and catch. When you try to deploy it, what we're gonna do is just dress the sling. So I like to get this all snugged up, and then I like to pull it towards the rear of the firearm, and I'm gonna fold it over itself. And then we're just gonna dress it like so. Dressing, just meaning, keeping it in line and keeping some pressure forward and back just to keep some tension on it. We're gonna take this end here and we're gonna fold it under itself and take the bungee strap and place it over. And then we can just dress it by snugging this up and keeping it in line.
Applications of This Stowing Technique (13:05):
Now, this is a good storage option for bag or in your vehicle. Keep in mind though. It's not folding in on itself and retained back here. So this will have a little bit of play. You're not gonna run, you know, a 100 yard dash with this. This is just to keep it outta your way so that you can get it outta your bag or your vehicle and deploy it and start working it. You can still manipulate the firearm, the safety trigger, and your charging handle in this configuration. To deploy, we're simply going to grab anywhere on the sling behind the bungee and it'll come out.
Mounting Options (14:02):
So as Derek showed, there's a lot of different ways. You can obviously set the sling up in the standard configuration as far as tightening and loosening it, the reverse as well. Using it as a single point. And what I wanna go over is actually putting the sling on the rifle or sub gun or whatever type of weapon that you are using. So there's obviously… You've got a few places, standard on your rifle that people are mounting slings to. You've got all the way at the end of the stock itself. End plate close to the mag well, a lot of new rails that are being made now have little QDs built in right here, like this Geissele 416 rail, and then usually all the way out here to the gun. These all have advantages, pros and cons based on where you actually attach your sling to.
Mounting Options - Continued (14:41):
Going all the way to the stock to the front will give you the most stability when you actually put the stock on your body, but it doesn't necessarily give you the best functionality when you're actually running around and shooting. Moving the sling closer together, gives you a little bit more maneuverability, but then you have less stability when you actually put the weapon on your back. And this is where it really comes down to you trying the, you know, your particular method out and actually testing and messing around with it. You could just clone whatever that we do, but I actually recommend you try everything stock to, you know, mag well stock to the end, end plate to mag well, end plate to the end, and see what works best for you on your rifle. because it is a little different if you're running like a 16" gun, a 20" gun, something like that SCAR or a tiny little gun like this MP5.
Using an End Plate (15:26):
So let's talk about… So obviously my preferred method is using an end plate. Having a QD is really nice because if I do a shoulder transition, the sling can freely move to either shoulder just fine. And then I attach this sling right here, close to the mag well. So what this does essentially is it gives me the best of both worlds as far as having maneuverability of the gun, but also weapon retention when I'm not using the gun or if I actually do transition the weapon to my back, the stock will flop a little bit as you can see, because I'm attached to the end plate, but the weapons out of the way I can do all my stuff and it's not too much of a problem. When I'm actually shooting the weapon and I'm actually doing stuff, the stock can very easily move under my shoulder.
And what's happening is I'm not basically dragging the sling—If it's attached here across my shoulder—the stock can move freely. And that's something that I really like as I'm moving the gun, you know, retracting it, if I'm around a car or around a barrier or something like that, or I have to go high gun-high ready, and just moving the gun around, doing reloads, things like that. It's a little faster, a little more maneuverable. That's why I like it. And then if I absolutely have to, I can actually pull this QD, not on this particular 416 stock because it's stupid. But on a lot of stocks, I can actually take the QD, attach it here to the rear and then get that stability if I'm actually running the gun on my back for a prolonged period of time. But again, this is something you're gonna need to play with and see what works best for your particular configuration and what you want to do.
So I actually have one of my old BCMs right here, and this has the sling attached here to the front. As you can see with the integrated QD on this Midwest rail, and then it's attached here in the rear, it is attached with a CLASH Hook to a QD. What would be better is the sling's actually threaded through the stock itself, but for the sake of what I'm doing right now, I just haven't set the gun up for that. So as you can see, when I have the sling attached all the way to the front, all the way to the back, the gun is very tight to my body, which is obviously very convenient for some stuff. But as soon as I go to start shooting and doing things, I start having to drag the sling across my shoulder.
And the other issue I have is sometimes if I'm moving the gun around and I'm collapsing the gun, the sling will actually fall back behind my shoulder back onto my back, depending on how loose the sling is, and that causes issues now, if I go to punch the gun in and my sling is now in an awkward position. So as far as shooting, if you have the sling really loose attached to the rear and all the way to the front sometimes you can get kind of bound up in it and it's not real great. You're gonna have to like learn how to use it. A sling is a piece of equipment, just like everything else.
Sling Padding (17:58):
So a couple things regarding functionality of the sling itself. So I'm a big fan of having a pad of some sort. Now the problem with a lot of slings on the market is they'll have a really giant pad and they like to market comfort, but the problem is, as soon as you start wearing a plate carrier or packs or a plate carrier with gear that's MOLLE-ed on the back like radios and stuff like that that's where that massive pad can start to cause some problems, because you've got more friction as you're trying to get the sling looser or just manipulate the gun while you have the sling behind you or the sling just snags and catches on the pouches and then when you go to punch out your rifle or do something you can't because your sling is obviously catching something in the back. So having a slick minimalist pad is something is probably my favorite thing about the sling in general. This… We have, it's about 1 1/2" or less, and then we have this nice mesh material that gives it some comfort. And then the edge as well is not—the binding itself—Isn't super sharp. There's a few slings out there I've tried where super sharps, cut my neck, open, things like that. But with this one hasn't been a problem, we've been running this for a while.
Benefits of Fabric Pull-Tab (18:58):
The pull-tab, if you guys have probably noticed is a fabric material, it is not a metal spring loaded sort of a system. Those can be really cool because they have very little friction. They can slide really easily. But the problem I've had with some of those in the past is the springs can wear out or they can get rusty. And so they're not as reliable while they are sometimes a little easier to actually use and faster to slide. You have some reliability issues. So we went with fabric to give us a little bit more reliability. It's a little slower than some of the, you know, various setups on the market. But it's been fast enough for everything that we've needed to do and it's much more reliable and that's something I really like about it. The other thing, the other advantage to having a fabric pull-tab is it can fold much more slim. So when you're actually going to stow it on the rifle, like Derek showed on this MCX right here there's a lot less going on to actually get in the way.
And if you start running a gun with like a folding stock like this, having less of a bunch of fabric right here that you can actually fold the stock on top of helps a lot as well. So a couple little functionality things. You know, the slider for adjusting the retention or the length of the sling, and then also the pad. Those are kind of the really the core things of a sling. And those are the things that we really focused on with ours.
Another functionality thing that I forgot to touch on, but is in my opinion, fairly important. There's a few slings on the market that have a lot of hardware going on here in the back, multiple triglides and multiple… Just lots of different things going on. And something I noticed is all of that hardware and material started to interfere with my chin weld, stock weld as I would get on my sight.
So one thing that I wanted was minimalist hardware—as little hardware as possible—here in front. We were able to achieve that with just a single triglide. And then obviously there's a little bit of sizing you can do back here and again, cut, you know, and then heat up. I actually didn't burn this one, but you can heat, cut up, and do all that. But I wanted to have very little hardware here to actually get in the way of your chin when you're actually going to get on the stock to shoot fast and see your sights.
Sizing the Sling to Your Body (21:04):
So we ship the sling with a lot of material and a lot of fabric there. So it can be sized obviously to a lot of individuals. So something you're gonna wanna do—especially if you are a skinny, small little guy like me—is you're gonna want to actually size the sling and actually get rid of some of the excess. All the sizing of the sling here is done in the front. And then what you're gonna do—in this case, this is a standard configuration, so it's a pull towards the rear to loosen—So all of my excess is up here in the front and then all you have to do is take a pair of scissors, chop it and burn it. It's really that simple. I'm not gonna do a full video on that, how to trim, and cut, and burn a sling. You guys get the point.
Sizing the Sling - Continued (21:41):
So what I like to do as far as sizing the sling, when I have the sling in it's fully tight position—and this is where I'm attached to end plate, attached here towards the magazine well—is I want the gun to obviously the stock be up here close to my chin. Obviously not hitting my chin. If the gun is in front of me, when I go to loosen the sling to actually shoot, I don't want to be loosening the sling. And then the gun is falling down to my knees. It's just falling right down here in front of me. So if I go to do a transition, my hand, if it's on the mag well, when I go to retrieve the rifle, my arm isn't fully extended and hyperextended, I still have a nice bend and that allows the gun to still ride fairly high on the body. The stock is outta the way. It's not gonna hit my chin, but I'm not having to reach for the gun when I'm going to grab it after I'm done with my pistol.
Reason for Cutting off Excess (22:29):
So that's something I see a lot of people either. They haven't played with it, or they don't understand when they are building out their sling. They leave it so loose in the fully loosened position that when they go to transition, the gun is now way down here by their legs, which obviously causes a lot of problems when you actually start moving around and doing things. So I basically have fully tightened where the gun is up here on my chest. And then I've got fully loosened. Where now, if I go to do a transition, it's still, you know, up high on me, but it's obviously not all the way down by my legs down by my knees. So that's something that you should definitely pay attention to if you don't want the gun, you know, flopping all around but out of the way for you to do whatever you need to do with your handgun.
So this sling that I've had on this 416 is obviously in the standard configuration where I pull to the rear to loosen the sling and I pull forward for tightening. But if we swap to the reverse method—I prefer the standard, but the reverse method has a very cool feature that I kind of wanna demonstrate—what this actually lets me do is when the sling is fully tightened—and I have a little bit here that's not cut, So again, just trim and then do all that stuff—But when I have the sling and it's tight position right now, and I think the sling was sized for a different weapon, if I'm just standing around doing whatever, doing nothing, and all of a sudden I want to get to the gun, what's really cool is as I loosen, it actually puts my hand close to the rail. So as far as efficiency while I'm actually punching the gun out, it's as simple as sling comes out, hand goes on the rail and I'm done. So that is very cool.
Definitely something you might wanna play with. It does make tightening the sling with one hand, a little harder in this configuration. So again, something to play with but it does… It is a little more efficient as far as starting with the gun fully tightened to your body and then loosening the gun. And it puts your hand right there where the rail is to start shooting. So that is a cool little feature with the reverse method which we haven't seen other companies implementing. And it's just something you might wanna play with and see what works best running, reverse or standard. So if you're looking for a sling that gives you a lot of functionality, but it's also a sling that can stow very tightly to the gun. And you also don't mind having some little shock cord bungees that come with the sling that allow you to set it up just like this. Definitely check out the T.REX sling. And we'll try to keep these in stock as best as we can to keep you guys equipped and just play around with it, run it, reverse, run it standard then. Yeah. Hope it helps.