Video Transcript
If there's one product you should consider purchasing outside of ammunition, as you are in the process of training with your various rifles and handguns, it's this little device right here. Let's see how it works.
This is the PACT Club Shot Timer. Now you guys have probably seen shot timers in a lot of our content out there or in content from other folks. Basically what this device does is it's an acoustic instrument that has various sensors in it and it's going to read to you all the different shots that you have fired while you're shooting some sort of drill or course of fire. Now that's obviously dependent on how close you are to the device if you're shooting suppressed or unsuppressed or if there's a bunch of other shooting nearby. I would say if you are trying to utilize one of these devices in an indoor range, that's going to be very hard to do simply because it's going to be picking up sound nearby and you're just going to have to be careful about timing when you are using this device, hopefully when nobody else is shooting. But basically the way this device works is you have this big green button right here, which initiates the device to begin the timing process. And then every time you fire a shot, it is going to generate information. It's going to generate data. And it's going to look like this. So that drill I shot 20 rounds, which you will see right here in the top left corner. So actually a pretty high round count drill for this. And off to the right I have my total time. So all the shots that I fired and it is 7.14.
Down here in the bottom left, we're going to have the first shot, which for me at 7 meters on a C-zone target into the A box of a .92. It's not too bad from the holster. And then over here in the bottom right corner is our split time. This is the time between this last shot that I fired at 7.14 and the shot before. When I want to review all the information within these 20 shots that I fired, I'm going to be utilizing these two arrow buttons right here. So just play with each arrow and you'll figure out how it works. So my first shot was a .92. Not bad from the holster.
Then I have a 113. So that's two shots into a USPSA target before moving on with a .21 split. Now you don't have to worry too much about split times. It is something to pay attention to if you want to get a lot faster or if you want to check your transition time, which in this case transitioning from a 7 meter target to a 15 meter target, my transition time was a .29. So this is where you can start to watch for trends, watch for different information, and see if you're actually getting faster and better at shooting as you progress through different drills. My split time on the 15 meter target was a .27. My transition to the far target at 25 meters is a .40. And my split time at that distance is a .35. Then I start working my way back. And at 10 shots I have a reload.
A 1.22 reload on a 7 meter target. So this is where I could pull apart this information and go, hey, I want to focus on this. I want to get this below a second. And I could start just focusing on that. But that's generally the gist of the PACT Shot Timer and how you can use that. One of the most important ways you can utilize a device like this is in dry fire. So getting used to having a initiation of a buzzer, which is something that, you know, when you're first starting to shoot is, can be a little intimidating for some folks. But as you just start using it, you start to become very used to, hey, buzzer, this is the time to go. And you go from doing nothing to 200 miles an hour. Now, there's this cool thing on this device. You can either set this to a randomized delay, which I would highly recommend if you're training on your own. It's really the only way you can train on your own versus an instant beep. The way you're going to set that is you're going to hit both arrow buttons at the same time.
And you are going to see that it is flickering between instant and delay. Basically, the device is waiting for you to tell it which you would prefer. One of the arrow keys is associated with each of these. I sometimes forget which one does what. I'm just going to hit the up arrow and see what it does. And we are on delay. Delay is what I want for training typically. And you'll see over here on the left side that par is flashing. This is essentially asking, do you want to set a par time of a certain amount of time or do you just want to move on? If you hit the green button, you just move on, don't do anything. But if you hit review, it's button right here in the center, you are now going to get these four digits right here with the one on the far right flashing. And this is basically saying, do you want to change this number over here for a par time or do you want to cycle through all of the different digits? Again, if you hit the green button, you cancel out. But I'm going to go ahead and set a par time as if I were dry firing. I'm going to hit review to move to the next one.
I'm going to hit review to hit go to the next one. And I'm going to say, two second, hit the green button or I can either hit review to go to the last one. And now I'm set. So now over here in the bottom left corner, you'll see I have a two second delay or two. I have delay, delayed start for the timer, but I have a two second par time. So it's going to sound something like this.
So in dry fire, I can now use that to set up maybe I'm testing, I'm working on my reload. I have a target at a certain distance in my house, like a light switch or something. And I'm drawing, getting a side picture, executing my reload back onto the gun. And I'm trying to do all that in under two seconds. Now you guys might notice that this is an incredibly loud device. And the reason for that is when you have hearing protection on, maybe you're on a line instructing a number of students. You need a device that is loud enough for everyone to hear it. Now the downside to this is when you're dry firing in your apartment or in your garage or in your house, that can be bothersome to a lot of people.
So one thing that I like to do. Is take tape of any kind duct tape, masking tape, painters tape, in this case, electrical tape. And what you could do is you can tape over the speaker of the device. This will take a few strips of tape, and now it should be a little bit quieter. Let's find out. Oh, that's a lot quieter with four, four pieces of electrical tape. So that's one thing you can do if you are dry firing indoors and that sound is just way too loud. Just tape over that sucker and you will be good to go. Now when it comes time to change battery, there's a specific thing that will happen on the pack timer that will indicate that you need to change battery. And that is when you hit the green button to go, you're going to see a time pop up immediately. It's like .1 second, something like that. And it may not the sensor may not be working properly and it may not record all of your shots or it may not record your last shot. Generally speaking, when I've had this problem, all I have to do is swap the battery. You're going to use a knife or some other pointy instrument. You're going to grab the latch. Pull towards yourself.
And then remove the nine volt battery. That's what this is. If you want to see if there's still voltage. That's what we all did back in the nineties. If you want to change the sensitivity on the pack timer, there is a small screw located down here in the corner. PACT does not recommend you play with this. Basically you screw it in or out to adjust the sensitivity of the device. You might want to do that if you're shooting like some crazy suppress gun, a subsonic 300 blackout, an MP5 SD, something like that. You might be able to play with it if you're training in an indoor range. I have not tried to do that. I have had no reason to do that. But PACT does say don't play with that. But it is there for either PACT technicians to work on or for those of you who are savvy and don't mind playing with a device. Now I will say if you are using a device like this to train with something like say an MP5 SD, which I have done quite a lot, it is not going to pick up any of the shots that you fire unless you have an individual holding the timer at the breach of the weapon, which is typically what you're going to have to have for a gun like that.
What you're going to do instead or what I recommend you do instead is setting up part time. So if you're shooting a specific course of fire, you could guesstimate, hey, I want to be able to shoot all three of these targets in like three seconds because I did it with my handgun in four. You set a part time of three seconds, you get on the MP5, on the buzzer, you shoot all of it, and you see if you're done shooting before the second beep. That is one way that I train with a super quiet gun while using a shot timer. But for most of you watching this video, it probably doesn't apply to you. But do with that information as you will.
There's a clip mounted here on the back which works quite well. Stick it onto your pocket, stick it onto your belt. If you're running around, it may fly off. You may want to play with sticking it on your belt, in that case, your pistol belt of some sort, just to prevent it from flying off and then you're not getting excellent information.
All right, so a couple drills that you can do immediately when you first get your shot timer to assess where you're at. One of the first ones I like to do from seven meters, seven yards around there is a single shot from the draw into a head box. Whether you're from an outside the waistband holster like this Ragnarok or from a concealment holster like the sidecar, you should be striving for a headshot in seven meters in under one second. So that was a 9.5. It was very conservative. We did indeed land our shot in the head.
Not exactly in the A box, but I will take it. At this point, I could do this three times in a row. This is one of my training philosophies. Just because I've done something fast and cool and I have the time on the shot timer doesn't mean I can do that on demand or repeatably. I like to execute things three times in a row. If I can deliver three headshots from the draw in under a second, then that is my level of skill. If I do a 9.5 and then a 1.2 and then a 0.8, it's all over the place. It's scatter gunned. I'm not actually proficient at doing that. I see consistency in something like that. Oh my gosh, that sucked.
All right. The next one is the build drill. Now, this is an excellent example of me sucking, but the time's there. So from seven meters, maybe 10, six rounds from the holster, either concealed or outside the waistband, doesn't really matter into the body. This is a drill that particularly works your recoil management, making sure you have a tight grip, making sure all the fundamentals of the draw, getting a good initial side alignment. I was staring at these pastures right here. It is good to go. Now, in this case, my timer is telling me that I am under two seconds, which is exactly what we're looking for. Six rounds from the draw at seven-ish meters in the A-zone in under two seconds.
However, I failed this drill because my second shot, my first shot was center, so my sideline was good. My grip was so nasty and horrible and bad that I ended up driving the shot down. I ultimately was able to fix it to get the rest in the A-zone, but this is a--it's not great. I don't want this. I want all A's in this amount of time. But I have a shot timer to grade my speed, and I have my paper target to grade my accuracy or lack thereof. Then, if I really want to get into the weeds, which I don't necessarily recommend, you don't have to do this. You might want to do this if you're maybe playing with some different guns and you're really trying to see how fast you are with certain guns over others. That's where we look at our split time. In this case, my first shot on target, which was a A-zone in .98, I'm happy with that.
Frankly, on this target, this distance should be quicker. But I could see my split times of a .20 for my second shot, a .17 for my third, a .19 for a fourth, a .18 for a fifth, and then a .17 for a sixth. It's kind of all over the place. It's kind of that upper teens to low 20s. That's okay. The only way I'm going to make this time standard is if I'm fast on the draw and I can consistently nail these rounds without having any massive trigger freeze. That's basically, those are like two drills you can do right off the rip with a timer to see where you stack up against me, against other folks. There's a lot of people out there that have different drills of targets at a different distance or a specific distance. Then you're going to obviously grade your accuracy off of those paper targets most likely. Then you have a shot timer to grade yourself off of speed.
Something that's been really cool about shot timers in general is when I first started getting into shooting years ago, so 10 years ago. I posted a lot of videos with these and there were dozens of comments from people saying this is the stupidest thing ever. It doesn't replicate real life, realistic training, combat, blah, blah, blah, all this fun stuff. Over the last, I would say eight years of high level units showing just photos of themselves using these in training on the flat range, working on their hard skills like shooting skills, a lot of that has gone away. At this point, a lot of people realize the importance of a device like this for a very isolated aspect of training, which is the flat range, which is shooting, as a way of getting better and faster at shooting. If you are looking for your next investment into yourself, into your training regimen versus just going to the range and blasting trash, definitely consider getting one of these devices. The best thing is you can use it at your house and get a lot of benefit out of it without even going to the range. If you have any other questions about the PACT Shot Timer or other devices on the market, go ahead and email us at [email protected].