The Trijicon RMR is one of the most proven designs on the market. It originally started as a backup red dot for the ACOG series of optics, but has now transitioned into being a very viable option for pistols. We sell a variety of them here at T.REX ARMS and there's a lot of other models out there that we don't sell. There's models with weird reticles, there's models that rely on natural light and have all sorts of, you know, just different power sources and weird stuff going on with them. But we've really chosen two models. The RM06, which is the manual battery-powered 3.25 MOA and the RM09, which again [is] battery-powered, but has a 1 MOA dot. We're not selling any of them with triangle reticles or weird reticles because a single dot is, in our opinion, much more effective.
So I want to go over basically what comes with this particular kit, this box. There's a couple little modifications we make to this. This is the RM06. So this is what it looks like right outside of the box, just the classic outline-shape silhouette of the Trijicon RMR (which also looks really good on a Glock because it's boxy and Glocks are boxy). Now it's really important that you don't throw away the box after you just pull the optic out because all of the good stuff, all the guts, are underneath the foam. Now, normally Trijicon includes this set of screws with the RMR, but the downside is these are so long they typically aren't going to work on a Glock slide. Now, it is possible. There are some MOS-style slides out there from other manufacturers, other companies, that have integrated optic plates, where these long screws will actually work, but we very rarely ever heard of these actually working for any product. So they're kind of useless.
So what we do is we include a set of screws from Jagerwerks. These are a little bit shorter. They work in a few more slides. And of course, they're going to work in the Jagerwerks slides, which are one of our favorites. Now it's important to note though, that depending on how your favorite machine shop is cutting their slides, these screws may or may not work. It all depends on how shallow or deep the little thread parts are going into the slide. So don't think, "Hey, these screws are going to work for any slide out there." The answer is, it really depends on what the machine shop's doing. And there's some really jank ones out there. So when you are getting your slide milled for an optic, for the RMR specifically, or any optic for that matter, make sure you ask them, "What screws work for this, what screws have you tested? And do you supply the screws?" They really should supply the screws. But in a lot of cases, these screws can work or at least in some cases they can work. And if you have a Jagerwerks, you'll be good to go.
The other thing we include—that for whatever reason Trijicon likes to sell separately—is the sealing plate. Now is the sealing plate always absolutely necessary? Eh, I've had good experiences not using it. But we do recommend you have it because what it does is it creates a moisture barrier between the bottom of the slide right here and the exposed battery on the bottom of the RMR. So the plate will get installed right here, like so, and then the RMR will sit on top. So we include this at no extra cost. We just chuck it straight into the box, so you have it to install onto your pistol.
Then we also include a zero target, which we'll be going over here in a little bit.
We also include a tube of Loctite as the Jagerwerks screws do not have Loctite already applied. I do not recommend you use green or red Loctite, putting an RMR on a pistol. The blue works just fine. You want to be able to take the optic off because that's how you remove the battery. So don't go beyond blue Loctite. But we do include a tube of this. So you'll be set.
If you are mounting the RMR to a Glock MOS, there's a couple things to note. The MOS is a very popular option to go with because you skip the entire need to go get your slide milled, then wait for weeks and weeks on end. You could just get your gun and you're ready to go, dropping an optic on top. However, you're going to need the right optic plate, especially on the Glock MOS, but also other pistols that have similar style of plate systems, to actually attach the RMR. So I have it right here and basically you just drop it on. And then these two screws are going to screw straight into the slide. And that now gives me my mounting interface for the optic. Now, the reason I'm not a huge fan of MOS style plate systems is now I have a couple extra screws that can come loose. And I have had these come loose on me before. That creates all sorts of issues and I lose my zero. So you're introducing two extra screws and an extra plate versus milling this directly to a slide, where I can eliminate all that stuff going on. But there are people who use MOS's with success. So it can be done.
So you take these two screws. You're going to screw these in. But another thing that's important to note is you are not going to use the supplied screws in the box necessarily with a MOS style gun. You are going to want to use the screws that are supplied with it. So in this case, I have two of these pre-Loctited screws that came with this MOS plate. You're going to want to use these as there's not a lot of room / threads available because they start to actually hit the bottom of the slide itself. As you can see, you only have about that much room of threads to use. So the longer Jagerwerks screws aren't going to work and the really long RMR screws that this came with, aren't going to work either. You're going to have to use the supplied screws. There are aftermarket plates out there, but again, you're going to want to use the screws that they come with.
So let's go ahead and mount the RMR to a Jagerwerks slide. Got one right here. Very simple, very basic. We're going to want our Jagerwerks screws right here. We're going to want the Loctite because they're not pre-Loctited. We're going to need the battery. And I've already got the sealing plate right here. So I've got all my stuff. Good to go.
Battery comes out. Plus sign will be facing me. Double-check. Yup. Optic is on. We're just going to do Loctite on the bottom. We're not going to run it along the entire length. Usually we want it to sit for a little bit before you actually install it. All right. That's probably long enough. I'm sometimes impatient. Just want to install it right away, but I've been told it's better to let it wait and dry a little bit before you actually install it. So I have my sealing plate right here. And as you can see, it has these little cutouts on the edges for the bosses. Not all slide companies are milling the bosses in the front, although it is recommended as it helps get the optic to return to zero a little better and also stay on the pistol, to some extent. So we have the sealing plate right there. Make sure the battery is placed properly. And then the other thing you want to do is make sure the sealing plate is straight. Cause sometimes it can get a little off. If it is off though, I mean, does it really matter? Not really. So then I've got my supplied Torx bit right here. Take the screws. Now, as far as torquing it down, I never measure the actual torque. I do hand-tight, plus a little bit. When you combine that with the Loctite, you'll be good to go.
So there we go. We got the sealing plate on there. We've got a brand new battery, and as far as the battery life on these goes, there's a lot of people out there that say it's years and years and years. And do you turn it off every day? Do you not? I'll leave my RMR on at all times. Usually towards the top or maybe one click down. And I have gotten around 8 months of battery life with that, sometimes a little bit longer. I typically try to change my batteries once a year though. But I'm not manually turning my optic off all the time if it's on my carry gun, cause that's just not reasonable. It needs to stay on. So it can stay on beyond 6 months. Most optic companies, when they give numbers on the battery life for their optics, you have to look for the fine print. And it will say, "On setting 7", "On setting 6". And then what you need to figure out is: Is that a setting that is actually usable in most conditions that you're going to be in? Because if you're going to go higher than that, then you need to take that battery life and start cutting it back.
So, perfect example, and I'll use it—it's not an RMR, but the T2. They say the T2 has, I think it's something like 50,000 hours or 40,000 hours on setting 7, which is a setting you can barely see with the naked eye. So if you jack that all the way to 11 or 12, which is like max brightness, the battery life is actually around a year or less than a year. So that's something that's important to note. I've had RMRs go six months, I've had RMRs go eight months, I've had RMRs go a year before. That's going to be based on humidity and temperature and the battery and if I am actually fluctuating the brightness a little bit or I accidentally dim it and then it sits in the locker for a while. But the battery life on these is really good. But the downside to the RMR—this is probably the biggest downside—is when it does die, when it does run out of juice, you have to remove it from the slide. And then you're going to want to reconfirm your zero.
Now zeroing a handgun optic. There's a lot of different ways to do it. I've done a lot of different ways. Proning out, putting it on a bag, putting it on a barricade, but what I've come to the conclusion of doing is just zeroing it with a 10 yard zero, standing. Then I do a confirmation usually a little bit further. Sometimes I'll shoot steel, but the reality is, as far as pistol-zeroing goes, regardless of whether you're doing a 10 or 25 yard zero, the thing you really have to make sure that you're getting accurate is the windage of your zero. The elevation, to some extent, doesn't really matter because pistol rounds have…the holds and whatnot are just so inconsistent, especially as you start swapping ammo and whatnot. So the main thing you want to watch for is making sure that your windage is correct, you're not like super left and then at 25, it's way over here. Because your elevation, that's just going to change based on distance and your holds and whatnot. If I have a 10 yard hold, I may hold low at 25, but then at 40, it's fine. If I have a 25 yard and… et cetera, et cetera. And a lot of it just comes down to knowing your holds. But the big thing we want to pay attention to is making sure that our windage is correct, that our optic is actually center with the target, with our point of aim, our point of impact.
So what we have with the zero target, and this is really nifty, instead of just shooting a little like black square, we have this convenient triangle that helps draw your eye to the center. This is particularly helpful at 25 meters, 25 yards, as something like this is a little harder to see. We also leave the center of the box clear so that you actually can see the red inside of that. Putting a red dot on top of black, it doesn't contrast very well. So then you don't really know where you are inside of that. So we kept it clear so you can really tell when your red dot is actually center with the square.
Now I'm going to be zeroing at 10 meters, a 10 yard zero. And the big thing there is really ensuring that my group is tight. Because the problem with shooting up close is if I have any like issues dragging the gun down, that won't be as evident as say, shooting at something like 25 or a little bit further. So at a 10 yards zero, I just really have to make sure everything is nice and tight, cause if I have anything that's a little bit low left, that means it'll be really low left if I go a little bit further away.
We also have down here how many clicks each type of optic is going to be. So if you're doing a 10 yard, shooting this at 10 yard, two clicks will be one of these little squares. If you were at 25 yards, it is going to be one click for one square. So if I shoot all my stuff right here, I can actually count how many clicks I need to go up, how many clicks I need to go right. And hopefully I can save a little bit of ammo as far as the zeroing goes.
So, I've got my Glock 34 here with this. Another important note— people get really confused about this. I know I did when I first started getting into pistol optics. Do not zero your red dot in accordance to your iron sights. The reason for that is your red dot is going to be a much more refined aiming point. You can actually adjust it much more than you can the iron sights. You can't really zero iron sights unless you have something like an adjustable rear sight. So oftentimes what happens after you're done zeroing your RMR at 25 or 10 or whatever you'll notice that it's not perfectly lined up with your iron sights. That's pretty normal. Because the reality is I can get much more fine tuning with this particular optic—the sighting system—than I can with these big pieces of metal. I can't move them around, I can't zero them real well. So you want to make sure you're really zeroing this independent from your irons. If they line up, awesome. If they don't, don't stress it. Just make sure your optic is zeroed and you can still hit stuff with your irons. What I like to do is actually turn my optic all the way off, then shoot with my iron sights and see where they're at. And as long as I can make hits at 10, 15, 20 with my irons, I'm happy. They don't have to be perfectly co-witnessed with each other as long as this is zeroed and these are somewhat zeroed, I'm happy.
All right, with that said, let's go to 10. Ten yards right here. Want to mark it cause we'll be walking up a lot. Another trick here: Have your optic as dim as possible. You don't want the optic so bright that it's covering up… Like right now I have it on full brightness, that's basically covering up the entire square. We want it as dim as possible, as refined as possible, so we can really make sure we are holding it in the center as we're taking each shot.
Pulled it slightly left. Pulled that one a little high. That was slightly right. So we are a little high. This one, I pulled this. And you have to, when you're zeroing a pistol optic, you really need to be like super duper, duper analyzing what's going on. I saw the dot flicker as I was pressing the trigger off to the left. So I knew this was left. These were both good though. And then I saw that one flash as I pressed the trigger. So I'm going to go ahead and come down just based on this guy right here and just overall the entire group's kind of high. We're going to go ahead and move this. We'll count the lines. So let's just take this guy and go one, two, but we're at 10. So two times two is, oh my four. Look, I was homeschooled, but like I can do basic math. So we're going to go four down. And our windage, not entirely sure. I do have three kind of favoring the right side, but we'll check that on the next group.
That felt really good. The dot was on the right slightly. That was a little high. And that was a little high, but my windage should be good. All right, so we probably come down a couple more. So as you can see, we drilled. So our windage is actually fine, is what it looks like. We drilled everything right here. We just need to come down. I'd say four more… Four solid. I can't really Sharpie that very well, but we know where it's at.
All right. Looks like my elevation calls in that last one I pulled a little left. Got actually two right here, one here. So we look pretty good. And this is kind of part of the issue. If I just shoot this over and over and I try to keyhole in here, like that's cool and all, but what will actually show me more of what's going on with the gun is now if I go to 25 and shoot this and actually see what my group looks like. So what we're going to do is we're going to go to 25 now or 20. Just go further. If you don't have a range of 25, like an indoor range—there's indoor ranges that have 20—that's fine. Send it all the way to the back. Make sure you mark all these up. And we're going to drill the center and see where our group lands inside of that. So 20 from here.
All right. 20 yards. Pulled that left a lot. That was good. That was good. Pulled that slightly left high. So I've got one far left, one left corner. The other three were good. So that's my ultra left, called. This is my… Actually it's probably these three were my goods and my left corner high is actually that guy. Okay. Okay. So we could potentially come down, but I don't want to screw with it too much. I'm looking more for the windage. And we're off a little. I'll go… I'm probably comfortable going two clicks right. And maybe one down. And we'll do it one more time. This is at 20.
Nope. Pulled that… Boy. That was good. That was good. That was good. Pulled one super low, horrible timing. Just wasn't watching my sight enough. Oh look, we actually, okay. Probably shouldn't click off to the right. Okay. So I did it low. It wasn't as bad as I thought.
Boom, boom, boom. Shot a little quicker. Shooting it as the sight fell. And we got one, one, one, one. That's actually two. So that's pretty good. I'm pretty happy with that at 20. So if I'm all in at 20 and I'm not on one side and not on one side, I'm very happy with that. It's a little high that could be due to just my hold. Cause I do have a 10 yard zero, but we should be good to go.
But something that I'll find myself doing on occasion in certain iterations, with my carry gun after zeroing it is, as I'm running drills and I'm doing stuff on the range going, "You know what? I need to click one, right. I need to click one low, like it's just a little off." And that's part of the zeroing process of the pistol. When you're done zeroing it, it's possible you'll have to make tweaks. Cause it's a lot harder to refine a pistol zero than something like a rifle with more points of contact, dropping prone, sending rounds, it's a longer barrel, it's more accurate than a handgun. Also depends on the ammo. So at 20 yards, if I'm in here, I'm happy. I'm not going to stress having the perfect pistol zero, because there's no such thing. I don't think anyone has ever zeroed a pistol perfectly. So if I can get everything in here, I kind of dropped all this down, I'm happy. This guy's set. Let's go to 40 meters on steel and double-check.
All right. 40 meters on a TA Targets' reduced C-zone. Again, my holds might be a little off if I have to hold low or hold high at this range. What I'm mainly looking for is no deviation in my windage. I want to be centered with my windage on this guy. Pulling right. That was on the right. (That's empty too?) Yeah, I think we're good. Some of that is just me. If you have any other questions about the RMR or other similar optics, you can email us at [email protected]